Match the file length to the workpiece,. Files are two-handed tools. To use almost any file, grasp the point between your thumb and first two fingers with one hand, and grasp the handle on the back end with your other hand. But you'll have to supply the handle for most files; they come with just the bare tang. There are several handle choices. You can buy a universal adjustable handle, which comes with inserts that fit different file shapes, or else purchase separate handles sized to fit each file.
New-style handles are ergonomic, with comfortably shaped. To fit a handle onto a file, slip the handle onto the tang, hold the handle in your fist with the file pointing upward, and slam the handle's end straight down onto the workbench. The file's momentum drives the tang into the handle. Don't try to pound the handle down onto the tang — file steel is brittle and will shatter with impact. Maybe someone else has the answer to that. Have used diamond impregnated blocks shaped like sharping stones and even several shaped like a sharping steel with good results.
Never have seen diamond impregnated files. Still use my stones, if you have some good ones keep them. Buy a file card and use it to keep the teeth clean also. My middle school shop teachers pushed this one a lot. When ever we finished using a file use the file card on it. What's a file card? Think of a hair brush with short metal fingers and lots of them. Also remember push down on the fore stroke and take the pressure off on the return stroke.
Wood or metal. Even pressure and use the full file not just part of it. Files are made 'cut' by driving mechanically a chisel into the soft steel that raises the teeth in a pre-defined pattern. The steel then is hardened and tempered to straw colour, if I remember correctly. This process would not be possible with HSS or carbide.
Perhaps the teeth could be formed by grinding, or in the case of carbide during the sintering process still requiring grinding. A rasp for wood has single, sort of triangular teeth, while metal files have ridges of teeth, rather than single teeth.
Finishing files have the ridges in only one direction, while roughing files are cross-cut in two or even three directions. I have used diamond-impregnated nail-files on wood long before diamond-files came onto the modellers market.
They work well and give a good finish, but are not so easy to keep clean. I would use them only for finishing, not for removing significant quantities of material. There exist diamond- honing files for metal, but they tend to be rather expensive, as their manufacturing process and construction is different from the cheap chinese diamond-studded tools.
There are also diamond-studded sharpening and honing plates for knives, cutting tools, and gravers on the market. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Click to see full answer. Moreover, what is a metal file? A file is a tool used to remove fine amounts of material from a workpiece. Most are hand tools, made of a case hardened steel bar of rectangular, square, triangular, or round cross-section, with one or more surfaces cut with sharp, generally parallel teeth.
Secondly, what are the different types of metal files? Different types of files and their uses Flat file. Half round file. Cooksongold 16cm Half Round Needle File — Crossing file. Vallorbe Crossing File — Barrette file. Needle files. Set of 6 Economy Needle Files — A file is generally used to smooth metal, where a rasp is specifically designed for shaping wood.
Asked by: Larraitz Tineo asked in category: General Last Updated: 13th May, What is the difference between a wood file and a metal file? Those for cutting wood are called wood -, cabinet- or pattern-maker's files.
Mill files may be used to shape wood they perform best on hardwood ; however, wood files will not withstand use on metal. Files rectangular in cross section are called flat files. Hand files are also categorized by profile, that is the shape of the file. Examples include flat, round, square, tapered, etc.
Although there are numerous sizes, shapes and types, files generally fall into one of the categories listed below. Within these categories, there are standard variations, each with a particular design.
Check out our file identification chart to see how many different files are available. These files are used in numerous applications and on most metals and are available in a variety of profiles and cuts. Saw files are usually single cut to deliver a smoother finish. They are suited to sharpening saw blades and dressing tool edges, especially where a finer, sharper edge or smoother surface finish is desired.
These are file-like tools that have been developed over time for specific applications or materials. Examples of special-purpose files include wood rasps, foam files and body filler files. Shape, tooth pattern and other material-specific criteria determine the optimum use for these files. Mini versions of machine and knife files, die sinker files are designed to dress and finish dies.
Somewhat resembling dentists tools, rifflers have uncut middle sections, making them safer and more comfortable to handle. Rifflers have slender, narrow ends to facilitate fine detail work. There are two types of riffler files—die-sinker rifflers and silversmith rifflers, both available in a variety of patterns and shapes. Die-sinker rifflers tend to be smaller and finer—the tools of die-sinkers, jewellers and instrument makers.
Silversmith rifflers have longer middle sections and wider ends. Needle files feature a double cut pattern. Used by jewellers, die makers and other detail craftsmen, needle files come in 12 different shapes and feature long, knurled handles. Because of their diminutive size, some needle files have integrated plastic handles to decrease finger cramping, cuts and abrasions. Filing is an industrial art. Every stroke should count and move you one step closer to a smooth, polished finish without gouges or abrasion marks.
Straight filing is pushing the file lengthwise down the workpiece in a straight or slightly diagonal position. The cutting stroke is the push stroke. Straight filing can deliver maximum material removal or smooth final finish.
Sometimes, the shape of the material can make straight filing difficult or awkward. Draw filing is another popular filing method. This involves holding the file at both the tang and the point, and pulling it across the workpiece towards you. Like straight filing, draw filing can provide maximum material removal or a smooth finish. The third technique is lathe filing and, just as its name implies, is the process of stroking the file against a workpiece that is revolving in a lathe.
This can be useful when truing a workpiece or for removing material. As with any application involving your hands and face, and revolving tools, lathe filing requires with much care and attention. Soft, ductile metals require a keen edge and light pressure. Harder materials require duller teeth and more pressure.
Tough, dense and abrasive, stainless steel requires a file with good wearing qualities. Apply light pressure and a slow, steady stroke.
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